Bonn Om Touk: The Water Festival - The Best Party of the Year

From Monday Nov. 11th until Thrusday Nov.14th the city has an influx of over a million people.  Everyone comes to cheer on their village rowing team and partake of the festivities.  Whether that be trying local, traditional food or catching a glimpse of the king or having your share of the local brew, you'll be sure to be treated to some new and exciting things at the Water Festival.

The water festival is what the locals look forward to  all year long.  As the rainy season winds down, the merry making begins.  The Tonle Sap Lake and Mekong River are the life blood to many Cambodia people.  The ways of water are so intricately woven into the livelihoods of families as they fish, boat, dredge, bathe in and drink from the water.  As the Tonle Sap swells with rainwater, the current actually change direction and begins flowing downstream, emptying into the Mekong.  A bountiful fishing season is about to begin.  Also, in ancient Buddhist traditions the rising of the full moon is a time to commemorate the beginning of a new and hopefully plentiful harvest (mainly rice.)  In celebration and thanksgiving of these events the people gather together in the capital to share in the excitement and enthusiasm.  

The highlight is the boat races.  After months of training and preparation, teams of anywhere from 20 to 60 oarsmen paddle their way down the river. With matching clothing and the traditional scarves (krama) wrapped around their necks, the team chants as their bodies' pulses rythmically dipping in their paddle, forwards, backwards and again.  Some teams stand, while others sit in their boat.  With determination and skill the brightly painted dug out canoes make their way across the finish line.  The competion is stiff as 424 boats strive for first place.  

As we wandered the busy streets our senses were piqued.  Fresh cotton candy was offered by one man.  The next woman was toting about seasoned, sun roasted snails.  The guy on his bike had a large kettle of boiling corn.  Vendors sat tiredly or walked about mindlessly selling their trinkets; a cheap bracelet, bamboo jewellery, knock off watches, souvenir T-shirts.  The palace area was lively as people jostled about, waiting for the arrival of the king.  Aristocrats took in the boat races dressed in finely woven silk garments.  Tourists with large cameras posed, flushed and sweaty beneath the afternoon sun.  Small children vigilantly kept watch for stray bits of food or lost tidbits.   Security guards dressed in somber greens and blues, watched as the crowds gathered on street corners, in resturants and on balconies.  The water front area was a buzz with activity.  

Learning to experience the joyful celebrations and the sad moments of life through the lenses of another culture is an unbelievable opportunity.  As all of your senses are engaged, you can beginning to realize how amazing and diverse this world actually is.  To begin to understand what these expereiences mean and the impact that it has on people and community is a an intricate, passionate and beautiful occassion . 

Catching Up

What better way to spend a lovely, lazy Sunday afternoon than catching up with friends? And that is just what we've been working on ( it cetainly is a work in progress.) Though long over due, it is about time we share with you a little more about our trip to Cambodia, Vietnam and Hong Kong.

The turbulent past that continues to haunt Cambodians will not soon be done away with. Inspite of those hardships there is a deep and resiliant beauty that is often seen in their gaze. Many warm days were spent exploring the culture and history of a people nearly fogotten by the world. We poured over books and asked lots of questions. People are willing to talk, believing that as they share their story we can learn about the pitfalls of human nature, those things that need not be repeated. In sharing their stories they gather strength to realize their value as human beings, and slowly their confidence grows. We are thankful for the brave men and women that allowed us to see their innner workings so we could learn to be better people. We left Cambodia with a strong sense of responsibilty to share what we experienced. It is in the following entries that we hope you will get a taste of just that.

The entries will be posted as they get finished in the very near future...

The Coolest Organization In The World

from November 6, 2008 ...

I just received an email asking me what Tabitha is. For the last year as we've described the Cambodia portion of this trip I have wondered that very question myself. I thought our time with my aunt Janne would clear that up. Funny enough the very first night we were together she said it was hard for her to describe the organization.

She has been a way at a silk fair this past week. Turns out the people (a large majority are ex pats) in Singapore are crazy about the silks products the families here make. So twice a year she goes to answer questions/do presentations as well as display and sell the hand made silk items. The successful goal for this year was to raise $150 000. But how does this money get back to the people, the poorest of the poor?

There are 4 main areas of out reach: community development, cottage industry, house building and wells. The first two is run by locals to get them back on their feet, to regain their pride and sense of worth that was lost beginning in the Pol Pot time. The second two promotes donations from international communities and allows them an opportunity for hands on work. We were able to see the operations in motions and help build houses too.


The community development is a huge part of what the local staff support. They currently work in 10 provinces in Cambodia. Families who are wiling to have a dream, big or small, can join the savings fund. A Tabitha staff worker visits the community on a weekly basis, collecting money from the participants. They then hold on to the money and together they keep a written record of the money, until the family has saved up enough money to buy their dream. Maybe it is a bag of rice, a bike, medicine, a mat to sleep on, supplies to send their children to school. At the end of each dream cycle ( 10 week period) they receive 10% interest on their savings. With renewed confidence and pride they beginning to make their lives better. Those from Tabitha that come along side the poor are usually involved and supporting the families for about 6 or 7 years, at about $20/family/year. So let's keep those donations coming.


The Cottage Industry is a fancy term that describes employing and empowering women so they can support their families. The handmade items are a big hit around the world; from linens to ornaments to purses to children's toys to silver jewellery, plus the special orders. Many of which are made from pure Cambodian silk, one of the best in the world. They are crocheted, knitted, woven, sewn, or carved. It is up to the individual to determine how much time and energy they'll invest towards the work, as the raw materials are provided and through piece work they are paid a fair price. HIV is prevalent and this impacts people's quality of life and ability to make an income. Tabitha's method of do what you are able is a saving grace for many families. Some of the the women work at the shop/show room and others have been able to buy a sewing machine with their savings and bring the machine home with them.

Where are you right now as you are reading this? There is a good chance that you are at your home. Imagine if you didn't have a computer, a bed, a reliable roof over your head, a kitchen table. How would you feel? It is a little different as Cambodia is tropical. But imagine if your house was just a few boards thrown together, a bent piece of tin or cardboard supported by bamboo and thatch. Safe and secure are not the first words that come to mind.

So that is where the community from abroad helps out. The donations of time and money are received by those who need it most. Together the communities decide who the recipients will be. Tabitha choose communities where over 75% of the people make less than $2/day. The elder is often a liason person, but the individuals take ownership of the decision making and the projects. Whether it be for wells or a house the recipients must raise a small portion. This can take many months and years. Tabitha monitors participants to ensure that they are committed to making the best use of the resources. They are encouraged to share water with those around them. The wells provide families with a source of income and more time to work towards their goals. Over time people can grown their own gardens and build extensions on to their homes.

Not many people can say that they have a aunt in Cambodia. And few people are able to proudly say that through family they can more clearly see how one person can make a difference in the world. Together we can and do bring about the changes in the world that we wish for and dream about.

There and Back Again

This little note will focus more on the "back again" aspect of life....

So for us it feels like we hit the ground running. After waiting for months to return to Canada we felt this growing unease about actually embarking on the last plane that would return us to our home, to winter weather, to family and friends, to routine, to less diversity, to organization. As the day to leave Cambodia approached we both second guessed our decision. Why were we returning to cold Canada? Jay had a job lined up for mid January, so we knew that money would soon begin to flood our bank account, but even that was not quite enough incentive to bring us back. Experiencing the Christmas cheer with family and friends was certainly a primary motive. Travelling, being on the move constantly and having no roots leaves you feeling exhausted. We were tired. Perhaps it really was time to take what we had accomplished ( many feats and adventures) and put it into some greater framework. To try to use it to change the world and ourselves as we make a difference where we are. Yeah that is no small calling!!

The flight home was decadent, so luxurious on it's own accord. You're going to have to be in the air for between 14 to 16 hours straight anyways. As we flew over the Arctic I awoke and had a pasty, dry mouth. It was disorienting to wake up and forget where you were and feel so strange. But before long the stewardess had been rung and was delivering us each a chocolate ice cream bar. The service we received was award winning. When the coldest hours of the day rolled in the ladies served a cup of noodle soup ( you know the ones where you pour boiling water over hard crunchy noodles, leave them as the heat works its' magic.) We even had a menu that outlined what our meal options were going to be. They had unlimited numbers of snacks. Our group of three seats was for just the two of us and so I was able to sprawl out and fall asleep. Jay spent the majority of the time watching movies. Who knew that there was over 50 choices of TV shows, 100 music selections and the most recent movie releases? Really what do you do with that many options?

Our 36 hour day involved flying from Phnom Penh to Hong Kong ( where we weren't charged extra for being a little over weight)to Toronto to Ottawa. The longest hours were those we waited in the Toronto airport. You are so close and yet those miles that separate you can only be diminished by waiting for yet another plane. As good Canadians we spent a good three hours in Tim Hortons sipping hot chocolate and catching up with our journaling, trying to distract ourselves. We had arrived at terminal 3 and needed to catch our flight in terminal one. A free train service transports you back and forth. As we stepped into the train there was a blast of cold air. It was the most unwelcome sensation, but also a poignant reminder of where we were. So many things to be discovered awaited us and the cold air was just the beginning. There was no visible snow on the ground.

Since we had cleared customs in Toronto it was torturous to wait as Jay went to use the bathroom. My family waited for us as at the bottom of the escalators. They were so close now. We'd used that very same gate a month and a half earlier when we had left for Cambodia. There wasn't too many tears, but certainly a few choked conversations. Dutifully my sister had brought us some warmer clothes. By the time we left the airport I had on a huge down filled 3/4 length coat. Jay was wearing snow pants and ski googles. Even still we commented on the weather and about being cold. Our family reassured us that this was warm compared to just last week. It was of very little comfort.

We slept in our own bed that night. Jay's sisters, who had last cared for our house, had done an excellent job cleaning the house and more importantly decorating it for Christmas. We spent a short time enjoying homemade Christmas treats with Laurie and Ben( sister and bro. in- law.) before being dropped off at home. I started the holiday season off right by trying a bit of every one. The tea we drank warmed us from the inside out. We were so glad to be back. The cozy atmosphere, filled with warmth and family was an excellent beginning. That is what we had longed for many times while we were away. That was one of the many things that brought us home.

We are still in the process of discovering the many others. Here are a few other things that we've discovered we love about our home, Ottawa and Canada. We'll hold off on the things that have irked and challenged us for another entry:0) A fully loaded kitchen with all the spices I can dream of. Ohh and I know where to find the sharp knives and a cutting board. The ease of public transportation. NO wait ... the bus drivers were on strike and the driving was terrible. Being so close to the river and starting to run again because there are tonnes of places that are close by and safe. Having a lap top computer which we can install with the programs we want and use. Picking up our phone and dialling friends and family. There are no extra numbers to dial, you can make yourselves comfortable or do something else at the same time and you can hear each other very clearly. Friends who change their plans to accomodate us. Talk about feeling special! Celebrating my birthday with a house full of people who know and love us.