Monday, March 23, 2009

Bonn Om Touk: The Water Festival - The Best Party of the Year

From Monday Nov. 11th until Thrusday Nov.14th the city has an influx of over a million people.  Everyone comes to cheer on their village rowing team and partake of the festivities.  Whether that be trying local, traditional food or catching a glimpse of the king or having your share of the local brew, you'll be sure to be treated to some new and exciting things at the Water Festival.

The water festival is what the locals look forward to  all year long.  As the rainy season winds down, the merry making begins.  The Tonle Sap Lake and Mekong River are the life blood to many Cambodia people.  The ways of water are so intricately woven into the livelihoods of families as they fish, boat, dredge, bathe in and drink from the water.  As the Tonle Sap swells with rainwater, the current actually change direction and begins flowing downstream, emptying into the Mekong.  A bountiful fishing season is about to begin.  Also, in ancient Buddhist traditions the rising of the full moon is a time to commemorate the beginning of a new and hopefully plentiful harvest (mainly rice.)  In celebration and thanksgiving of these events the people gather together in the capital to share in the excitement and enthusiasm.  

The highlight is the boat races.  After months of training and preparation, teams of anywhere from 20 to 60 oarsmen paddle their way down the river. With matching clothing and the traditional scarves (krama) wrapped around their necks, the team chants as their bodies' pulses rythmically dipping in their paddle, forwards, backwards and again.  Some teams stand, while others sit in their boat.  With determination and skill the brightly painted dug out canoes make their way across the finish line.  The competion is stiff as 424 boats strive for first place.  

As we wandered the busy streets our senses were piqued.  Fresh cotton candy was offered by one man.  The next woman was toting about seasoned, sun roasted snails.  The guy on his bike had a large kettle of boiling corn.  Vendors sat tiredly or walked about mindlessly selling their trinkets; a cheap bracelet, bamboo jewellery, knock off watches, souvenir T-shirts.  The palace area was lively as people jostled about, waiting for the arrival of the king.  Aristocrats took in the boat races dressed in finely woven silk garments.  Tourists with large cameras posed, flushed and sweaty beneath the afternoon sun.  Small children vigilantly kept watch for stray bits of food or lost tidbits.   Security guards dressed in somber greens and blues, watched as the crowds gathered on street corners, in resturants and on balconies.  The water front area was a buzz with activity.  

Learning to experience the joyful celebrations and the sad moments of life through the lenses of another culture is an unbelievable opportunity.  As all of your senses are engaged, you can beginning to realize how amazing and diverse this world actually is.  To begin to understand what these expereiences mean and the impact that it has on people and community is a an intricate, passionate and beautiful occassion .