Market Days In San Cristobal

Okay now that you all have a better understanding of what San Cristobal is like I'll let you in on more of the artsy, fun things that we were able to do. I'll highlight two more things. The first is the markets and the second is a play/dance/musical that we went to. Jay worked hard on the pictures and hopefully you get a sense of the sights, you are still missing the smells and sounds, but that will be left up to your imagination!. No cameras allowed at the production.

The market is a thriving business opportunity for many families. They are bustling with people buying and selling all sorts of weird and wonderful things. Some of the markets are temporary, setting up on certain days of the week, while others are permanent. In S.C. there were two main ones that we frequented because they were with in walking distance. It sounded as though there were at least 2 to 5 more that were further away. Both of these markets were permanent, thought that meant two very different things. The sweets market (ohh soo good because it is deliciously fresh and hand made) was a covered building, in which people had designated stall areas. This market had restaurants around the perimeter and also sold textiles, jewelry, and some wooden trinkets. The other market was an artisan market selling similar products as the first (minus the sweets) but on a much larger scale with a lot more variety. It was outdoors. Each person had tables and hangers with a sort of over head covering made out of wood and sticks. At the end of each day ( and they had access to electricity, so their days where long, till 7 or 8pm) they would pack all their goods up and cart them home, unpacking them again the next morning. It seems like an exercise in patience!

The traditional Mexican shopping experience is to buy enough food till the next market day. For example in Jalcomulco there is a fruit and veggie market Tuesdays and Saturdays. Friday is when the clothes, music/DVDs and other random household vendors set up. People buy whatever is available on that day, even when the quality would be questionable by our standards. If they run out or miscalculate they take a trip to the corner store, which has a little bit of everything. You might have to ask for a specific product or a more fresh item as they hide all sorts of things in fridges or in a back room. From our house there are 2 stores with in 1 block and 8 with in 5 blocks. The prices are comparable to the markets. The best times to visit a market is from 9am to 1pm.

The artisan market is a treat to one's eyes! The colours and patterns of clothing and art are as lively and bright as the people that sell them. The women are the ones that come in from the surrounding villages, walking 20 minutes to an hour. I'd be curious to know what the men do, but I assume that they farm and prepare the clothes and art. The women bring their children, who often try to help or play near by. It wasn't uncommon to see a mom breast-feeding. The smaller children were slung over their mom's shoulders or backs using a shawl. Often you'd see little feet poking out the bottom. Some people were aggressively
seeking you out ( though that was more common in the streets, away from the market), while most worked on projects as they waited for you to make up your mind. One of the bonuses for us is that their wares are inexpensive compared to what you'd pay at home. The price that they quoted left little room for bargaining, though we tried. This seemed unusual. The women come prepared with food and water for the day, thought there is stalls around that sell food.

One evening we came upon a road that was pulsing with activity. It was a pedestrian only area. There was a little guy bellowing out a tune, while others set up displays of jewelry. The street was lined with cafes, bars, restaurants and shops. From our discovery day forward we just referred to it as Sparks Street. As we continued further on we were bombarded by folks who invited us to this production that we had seen advertised around town. We thought it looked good but in our general fashion we couldn't make up our minds. What about the cost? Did we really want to go? What else did we have to do? After a block of bantering we decided to go for it. Our timing was perfect as we got the last upper section (cheap) seats. What we discovered when we got inside the theatre was that it didn't matter. The place had maybe 20 rows and they used the aisle as part of the show, so actors were coming and going right beside us. Either way the price of the ticket was certainly worth it.

The show was called Palenque Rojo. Palenque is a town that is about 5 hours bus ride away. It takes quite awhile to get there as you have to go through the mountains. Now it is the site of a major Mayan ruin. Following is a direct excerpt from the brochure; " In the extraordinary lands of the Mayan, embraced on all sids by the jungle, with its exoticism. wild beasts and magic, there was an age which gave rise to two great city states: Palenque and Toninia. These two cities fought to control the commercial route from the Gulf of Mexico to the heart of the mainland. Here we present one of the most important moments of this power struggle: the kidnapping of the ruler..."

The presentation was well done, from live music to their costumes to the choreography. It is impossible to describe fully. The highlights were the animal costumes and watching how they moved about ( like the crocodile for example.) The way that the king and his assistants were dressed was also impressive, particularly the masks worn for battle. At one point in the fight against good and evil a large skeleton appeared. It must have been about 20' tall and as it got closer to the front of the stage you realized that it was actually being moved by a person inside the costume. It was easy enough to follow even when they spoke some indigenous dialect.

Here are the pictures. You may have already seen then, but they empasize what I described.

Night Life and Other Fun Things to do in San Cristobal

So now that you know a little about the environement of San Cristobal, we`ll describe the culture. Let me tell you there is a lot!!

San Cristobal de las Casas

The first day we as we wandered the streets we came upon this lovely bakery. They had cinnamon buns and chocolate crossiants ( among other things, including homemade yogurt and organic products.) I love sweeets, particularly home made ones - they just taste that much better. As it turns out this little place was part of a "cultural center," appropriately called El Punte ( the bridge.) It offered a language school, a cinema ( a projector and a large screen with plastic patio charis to view the movies from), the bakery, a shop and a resturant which had a fireplace (that they light for us one night when we had tea, cause Jay was a little under the weather.) We certainly made good use of the place and their bathrooms (typically you have to pay for the washrooms, especially if you are not a customer.)

During our stay there we saw a total of 4 movies. Each one was $2.50 and by the end the guy just kind of laughed when he saw us come to pay. Four is alot but the movies were predominatly documentaries about the state of Chiapas, the people and the struggles that hey have had. One was also about the WTO and the impact that globalization has had on the Mexican farmers. It wasn`t flattering but you got a better view into how compliacted it all is. The other 3 all focused on the Zapitistas.

The very first movie we saw was a compilation of interviews with elderly people who had joined forces with a prominent historical figure: Emmanuel Zapata. His goal was to fight for the land that was quickly being swept up by the rich, government folk. It gave you a positive impression of what this group strove to acheive and some of the faults of the leader. The people interviewed spoke highly of what happened. In the end violence was used. This has not been forgotten by the indigenous people.

These very people who respected Zapata used his methods to create an uprising starting in 1994. The other two films explained the modern day revoltution with the Zapatistas, what had happened (disagreements lasted 10 years) and how in many ways they were unsuccessful. The indigenous people were no longer simply fighting for land, but their basic rights to health care, schooling and other such things. Currently they continue to fight for these sorts of political and economical struggles but thatnkfully it is not with violence.

The films were informative and forming. They forced us to consider what peaceful living really means. It is an understatement to say that we take health

Mexican Insights After Living with a Family

Nothing can be more exciting and strange than living with another family. We had the pleasure of spending this past week (Jan. 12 until the 19) with a Mexican family. Our Spanish has improved immensely, however we are still at a very basic level. But I no longer have to shrug my shoulders because I don`t know the words. The words can now be used to make choppy sentences.
We were introduced to the family at our Spanish school. I had mentioned that I would enjoy having kids around. Well on Sat and Sun the family kind of grows exponentially. During the week the mom (Beatrice) and dad (Marcos) are alone in the house that was passed down from his mother. They have two sons. One stills lives at home, but doesn`t eat meals there regularly. The other lives in Tuxtla, which is an hour away and comes home on weekends to visit with his kids, which he then brings home to his parents.

Beatrice sees the kids through out the week and loves to take care of them on weekends. She proudly stated that between her and Jorge (? like George in English) they have a system worked out. Jorge gives most of his attention to the grandson who is 4 years old, while Beatrice cares for the little girl (10 months old.) This particular weekend was a little bit hairy because Beatrice thought Jorge wasn`t spending enough time with the kids. She suspected that he was out with another woman. When he finally arrived back home he had a strip torn off of him for bring the tortillas home late and I suspect he may have heard a few other opinions as well. After their animated discussion, Beatrice returned to the kitchen with flushed checks.

As a first introduction to a family we felt like this was incredible and our tendency was to feel awkward. However what you don´t see is how clearly this illustrated how Mexican society thrives. I tell you this story not to make them look back but to illustrated a few very interesting cultural ideas. I hope that you can appreciate them as much as we have.

The first is that the women are the backbone of the culture. In the past there has been a traditional image of a indigenous man sitting against a cactus with his sombrero tilted over his eyes, passed out for a siesta or from drinking too much. Though that is far from accurate in most communities ( this morning I was out for a run and was passed by numerous men of all ages on their donkeys on their way up to pick coffee beans or oranges.) As Beatrice demonstrated by her harsh reprimand of her 30 something year old son, the family ties or some might say, a tight motherly grasp, never really disappears. It is sort of like you need their permission before you do things or there are big consequences.

Family means a lot and therefore the motherly attributes are embellished. Moms know everything and they do a lot. They spend hours caring for their spouses and children. At my house you ate whatever was placed in front of you or went without. At one point Beatrice was making three different meals. One for us, here son( because he only liked it with cheese) and another for Marcos. Such dedication is admirable. They go to great lengths to make sure that you are cared for. At that often means juggling many things. The women often run stores or restaurants out of their homes to make a little money on the side of house cleaning and family duties.

When things do go wrong they are less likely to be covered up. Instead they are openly discussed, with whomever and that usually includes the extended family. Their sense of pride allows them to easily admit their short comings, more easily than the Canadian or American psyche. In part that may be due to their openness.

Mexicans are affectionate. Often you see couples trying to hide in a dark corner of the park to be by themselves. A typical greeting is a hug with an imaginary kiss blown on one check. The guys have a high five and knuckle knocking hello worked out. The first time the other son arrived home he greeted his dad with a huge kiss and a bear hug. It is great fun to people watching Mexcio.

San Cristobal - Our Initial Impressions of the City

So we have arrived in San Cristobal De las Casas, which is in the state of Chiapas (southern most state) on Tuesday after a deluxe bus ride. We spent the night on the bus but didn`t even mind too much because we were on a "GL" bus. I don`t really know what that stands for. It was the second best bus in first class, if that makes any sense! There was lots of space and the seats recline a lot. We even slept relatively well. And they give you a free pop or water. Ahh the perks! We stopped over in Villahermosa, in the state of Tabasco, where all the flooding was recently. It was exceptionally hot there even though it was early morning. We didn't venture far from the station so we didn`t see much of the damage. Though I am under the impression that a lot of clean up work has already taken place. You could however smell the musty, dirty smells when you entered buildings. The big superstore that we visited had watermarks that were at least 10 ft from the ground we walked on. Incredibly hard to imagine how it would feel to have a 3 hour warning that the downtown would be flooded. And then to be helpless as the water came. So much destruction and simply because they didn`t have the infrastructure in place if there was huge amounts of water.

San Cristobal has been pure delight. Jay had started to feel a little under the weather though. The place reminds us of Westboro, but magnify the scale to a whole section of the city. There are multiple coffee shops and places that serve cakes and pies (which is rare in Mexico). There are organic food places and at least two vegetarian restaurants. I guess you can tell that we miss home when those are the sorts of things that you are drawn to. It is also home to many lively bars and jazzy clubs. Part of the attraction to this city is the indigenous Mayan groups of people that flock here from surrounding communities dressed in their tradition clothes, often selling alot of hand made art. They are so unique and different, speaking their own dialect. This means that the groups of people, though they live only 20 minutes apart can`t talk to each other. I have never seen so many bohemian like tourist either. They are either young like us or retired.

One of the tourist guide books describes this exotic flair as the Guatemalan influence. I guess we´ll gain a better appreciation for this as we continue our travels. The city reminded us of Oaxaca as a city with a very old colonial feel, that is totally geared for walking. It is set in the cool highland forests of one of the big mountain sets in Mexico: the Sierra Madre. This mountain range travels from North to South and this particular one is on the Eastern side of Mexico. This means that the temperatures are quite cool at night, but warm to the 20s C during the day. The bus ride there was awesome for views of quaint farming plots and lush pine forests. It felt a lot like home but set in the mountains!!

Prior to our homestay we had been staying in a hostel where we saved money by staying in the dormitories. The hostel had been recommended to us by some friends. Funny story about our first night there.... After a night of travelling all I wanted was to be alone so I could sleep. Well, there was no rooms available but there was the dorms!!! What does that mean? Well it was a large room that had a second floor built and was converted into several bunk beds. On the second level there was a double mattress. Perfect for us. As it turned out that night we were the only ones up there. The bed was comfortable. In the morning we had the option of a room to ourselves but we declined. The room and the environment grew on me. Once you go through the main door and hallway you come to an open air court yard. We played Chinese checkers there under the stars. It was a fun experience and you meet a lot of different and sometimes crazy people, with great ravel tips and ideas. You appreciate your own private space a lot more afterwards.

We went to the zoo in Tuxtla ( about an hour away)! It was one of the coolest that I have been to. We decided that we wanted to take a day trip and figured it would be too much to squeeze a boat ride through a 800m canyon and the zoo tour in. As toursits and tavellers we are finally learning the valuable lesson of taking our time. Sometimes that means not seeing everything - a difficult decision to come to. So we had to choose and didn`t regret our choice after such a lovely day.

Getting to new places on the cheapest budget is an adventure that we have come to enjoy. We took a new, modern VW van to get to the city for $3.50. The views from the vehicle where of mountains on one side and a desert and valley on the other. When we arrived in Tuxtla we got on a collectivo, which was in a more beat up VW van. We had to ask a few people about which one to take and where to catch it but in no time flat we found ourselves squished in with a bunch of school kids who jokingly asked if Jay wanted a girlfriend. They like to practice English I guess!

The zoo is designed so that the animals which are all found in this state are in their natural habitat. You are probably thinking, well I hope so isn´t that what zoo`s are supposed to do. They had creeks and waterfalls running throughout the park. The monkeys, some of the birds and a few other animals have a home but they are able to roaming around, not the jaguar though! I looked up at one point and there was a monkey playing in the tree above us. We saw tapirs, crocodiles, turtles, lynx, panthers, a whole bunch of furry raccoon like creatures with long or short bodies or tails, hawks, parrots, macaws, insects, snakes and lizards. The two jaguars ( a black one and a spotted one) are the highlight of the zoo. They are found at the far end of the park in an immense cages. The trees found with-in it had barbed wire wrapped around them from about 10 feet up. We have some great pictures. Jay was impressed and he doesn`t really like zoos.

Fair Trade Coffee Anyone?!?!

Ahh we now have a new appreciation for coffee. We have a better understanding about how much work is involed with getting the beans to your favourite coffee chop or a fresh cup of coffee to your kitchen table.

At different times Jay and I each had the opportunity to go coffee bean picking with our Mexican family. Both of us thoroughly enjoyed the day even though we went to two different spots. Following are some of our thoughts and reflections about the similiar expereinces we had. Coffee bean pickingbecomes quite a time for family bonding. We were left with an appreciation for the amount of work that is involved, for minimal compensation (by our standards.)

Part of the allure of coffeee bean picking is getting to the trees. Jay went at the beginning of the season. Together they set off on foot from our small community following paths wide enugh for one person, high on the ridge along the river`s edge. The view is spectacular. Suddenly your appreciation fro the view changes as you look down on the rapids, rather than navigating the waves at eye level. The scenery is just as beautiful but different things catch your eyes.

Coffee bean picking is a family affair. The photos that will be posted with this capture the zest for life and simple shared moments that bring much joy. We felt that alot. As I picked the beans I couldn`t understand what was said but the joking manner that reasonated in people`s voices and the laughter that followed made me smile. Eating lunch was also really fun. When we went we built a little fire with a grill over top of it and the food kept slipping off. They knew how much I enjoyed cooking so thought that capturing my attempt to use a machette while cooking would be pretty funny. That started them off on being funny in front of the camera.

I guess it is the reward for all the hard work that gets done. On the day that I went we picked a total of 180kg of coffee beans. That was between 8 people. I picked about 5 baskets full. You strap the basket around your waste and walk around the tree picking only the ones that are red. The beans were ripe and they had lots off fruit weighing them down. Some of the clusters of beans were above our heads so you gently pull the branch down. I got alot of dirt in my eyes from looking up while I pulled down on the branches. Every once and a while you would hear a branch being broken.

After the beans are picked they are then placed in a re-used grain bag, the ones that carry about 50kg. At the end of our day 7 big bags had been taken out by a horse. The day Jay went they used a donkey. The animal makes two trips and can carries 3 or 4 bags at a time!! We each had to pose on the animal. The donkey was so small or Jay is so big, such that Jay`s feet nearly touched the ground. The family thought that was hilarious. THat was one of the first things I heard about when they got back!

At four o`clock the work stops. It takes one hour to get back to Jalcomulco. And it gets dark at about 6 pm. Jay went by foot but we took a bus to a field that was about20 minutes from town. Now this bus is a "between city" bus that takes anything from bags of cofffee beans to kayaks ( yes we have) . There are two main places that they run from our little town but they will drop you off or pick you up pretty much anywhere in between. It cost $0.50 for our trip. From where we were dropped off we still needed to walk that hour I just mentioned. It still amazes me that they have property so far away from their homes and can take care of it. Usually I have a decent sense of direction but I`m pretty sure that there is no way I could find this little plot of land back.

When we finished our day there was a truck waiting for us that took us back to town. The beans are then brought to some guy in town who has a scale. The family is paid 4 pesos or 40 cents a kilo. If you do the rough math that is 90 pesos a person on a great day of picking. The translation is $9 a day! That is alot of work for not a lot of money. Despite the hard work that is exerted and the small amount of income that is generated we both appreciated that the plants were shade grown. The coffee bean plants are shaded beneath banana trees and other sorts of plants. As the sun radiates down you don`t mind as much.

I thought that I would give you a better picture of how much the money is worth and what you can expect to buy with it. Each month for rent we pay 1000 pesos ($100 C. ) The chepest dinner that we've enjoyed has cost 42 pessos ($4.20 C). A milkshake with fresh fruit and a meat sandwhich costs 35 pesos ($3.50 C). A bottle of Coke costs 7 pesos ($0.70 C) and you can get 1.5 L of beer at a corner store for 20 pesos ($2 C.)

The beans are then taken to another person who has a scale but they are about 45 minutes drive away. It was dusk and this lady was sitting beside a corner store. There was already about 20 bags of beans there. From there they are taken to a plant where they are whisked through some sort of process that removes the outer shell. The beans are then dried out in the sun at two different times for 2 to 4 days at a time. We have passed by one such factory and the drying process is pretty simple. There is a huge slad of concrete that the beans are put on. They must be taken in a night time or then might get wet from the dew and maybe rain. They are "swept" over with these rakes that look like fine combs. The second drying process happens once the main pod has been removed and you are left with the individual beans. The beans are roasted twice a week at this factory.

I`m not sure what happens next. I`m guessing they are sent to cafes and resturants in the area and maybe further, but I just don`t know. My mission is to figure that out. I hope that you have enjoyed reading this. Enjoy the pics as well.

Coffee Picking in Jalcomulco

The Holiday Season Continued

To celebrate anything in Mexico it is essential that there is fireworks. They are shot off at any time of day, usually from the city square. I`m not sure if it is one person`s job or if it is various random people. Let`s just say that there have been lots and lots of fireworks. Sometimes it is one, other times it is several in a row. Sometimes it is every ten minutes and other times it is everyhour. Sometimes it signals that church is starting but we don`t know that schedule!?!?! Often it wakes Jason up but I usually sleep right through it.

Mexicans love to decorate and they go all out. Christmas is no exception. Most homes around town had lights outdoors, with a Christmas tree inside. There are many other knick knacks. They use real flowers in the churches so it smells great inside. There was even one of those big blow up Santa Claus decorations in the main square.

Christmas Day was very relaxing. After a family hosts a large party it is expected that guest will return again in the morning for leftovers. So we showed up as invited for 9:30 but everyone was still sleepy. The leftovers tasted just as good as the day before.

We spent the rest of the day enjoying each other`s company. We read books and did puzzles. The owner of our apartment dropped by with a present for us which was a great surprise. In the evening we joined together with everyone from Esprit for a turkey dinner and there was even cranberry sauce and stuffing with cheesecake for dessert.

The weekend before Jason had spoiled me by taking me into Xalapa for my birthday. We spent the night at a wonderful place that he had reserved. He was full of surprises! I didn`t know he`d reserved a room and upgraded to a suite. He also got a cheesecake mix that we prepared in our hotel . We went shopping (not his favourite thing to do) and he bought me silver jewellery. We even found a place that made great fries. Everyone was happy!!!

New Years was laid back for us. We enjoyed the live band at Esprit`s bar. The music was great. The band finished at midnight when the champagne was popped open. That was when the real celebrations began. Jay had been working alot so we didn`t have a really late night. I did get dressed up, which was fun. Only the second time since we`ve left.

Over all we were totally blessed. Our family here made us feel comfortable and a part of things. The time leading up to Christmas was a little hard. We missed the snow and the many other family events. But we made the best of it and had lots of fun!

Children have to wait until Jan 6 for presents. The day is called "Three Kings Day." That is their gift giving day. Yesterday you could see the kids playing with their new toys outside their homes. They also have this special bread. Everybody cuts their own piece because inside there is little plastic toys. If you get one it means that you are expected to bring a certain food to the next fiesta.

The holiday season

So one of the best experiences that Jay and I have been able to have so far is participating in holiday celebrations here in Jalcomulco. Christmas (which just ended yesterday) combines fiestas, religious pageants , special Catholic masses and is considered a national holiday." And we were able to experience all this first hand.

Starting Dec. 16 and continuing for many days the Mexican peasants and less often people in larger communities carry out a tradition referred to as Posadas. Kids from the community reenact the journey that Mary and Joseph took to Bethlehem and their search for lodgings there. This means that two youngsters dress up as Mary and Joseph. Mary gets to ride a donkey, while Joseph leads her around. Another kiddo carries around a large paper star. People of all ages follow them around with candles as some people sing and play guitars. They travel thru various parts of town, on different streets every night. Families take turns hosting the group and when they complete their tour they share refreshments at that home.

Another distinct tradition is nativity scenes. They are bigger and better then anything you have ever seen and they are everywhere. They are very elaborate. On Christmas Eve Baby Jesus is added. When we attended mass at the local church three young girls dress in white silk present the doll. For the posadas that follow after Christmas, the girls are dressed in the same white dresses. I`d imagine that it is quite an honour for them to have this responsibility.

Mass lasted forever on Christmas Eve (it didn`t start on time and it feels like forever when you can`t really understand too much) . The church was packed with people and many ended up just standing. Once the service was complete we spent the evening with our Mexican famiy and about 15 other extended family members. It was such a treat. We had a great meal of pork cooked two diffrent styles, rice, spaghetti (done the Mexican way), salsas, beans and they made a salad just for us. There was also a hot fruit drink that included sugar cane and other local fruits. They included a Mexican rendition of Happy Birthday at midnight which was also the same time as the meal was served.

The host really wanted us to feel at home and started the night off by saying that we had to accept all drinks and were not allowed to say no. We paced ourselves pretty well. We even found out that there is a good way to drink Tequilla. We enjoyed our visit that lasted until 2:30 that morning. Before we left I was give the responsibility of adding baby Jesus to their nativity scene. Everybody has to kiss the doll first and then it is placed in the manger. The tradition is that once you do it you are expected to do it for the next 2 years. They are certainly hoping that we come back.