Canadian Hospitality at It's Best

How do you describe something so familiar and yet not? What words can you use to explain returning to a place that you call home and yet it has changed? Whose life has not taken a different path over the last year?

So much is very different than when we left 14 months ago. And that includes us. We have begun the journey of exploring the perspectives and characteristics that will define how we see the world differently. And we have been doing that amongst those that we love and care for. It's something we often found ourselves longing for while we were away. And now we are surrounded and enveloped by our friends and family.

We arrived back in Canada on Mon. Oct 6, after spending 5 days in balmy Fort Myers Beach, Florida with Tamara, Ian and their 2 super-cute girls (Karenna and Anneke). We were met at the Toronto airport by Tom (Jay's cousin once removed.... I think). As we walked outdoors he warned us that we might not be able to fit all our luggage and us into their sports car. By the time we got to the car we were all ready to at least give it a try. The good news was that we got it all in and we didn't even have to stuff anything under the hood. It did mean that Jay hit his head on the soft topped roof and was sitting side ways - but really that just was par for the course most other places we'd come from.

Somehow people knew that the pasta in South America sort of stinks. They are just so skimpy on the sauce. Our first meal on Canadian soil was a beautifully served spaghetti with chunky meat sauce and fresh garden salad done up with blueberries, a generously shared bottle of our hosts favourite red wine, warmed pumpernickel bread and real butter and homemade apple pie garnished with whipping cream. Thanks so much Lynelle! Other meals have included delicious pastas and stews. Eating cereal and cold milk along with other prepared breakfasts sure beats the lame Peruvian continental, stale-bread-no-eggs breakfasts we'd become accustomed to. Yep it is quite possible that we've gained a few pounds already!

We've spend time reacquainting ourselves with friends from Ottawa who have moved away. Toronto and Barrie are beautiful in the fall. We caught up on news of paddling, nursing and church friends. Some have new babies and other are adjusting to new homes and jobs. Seeing Sabrina on her way back to India and Agnes just before her huge RN test were awesome treats for us both. Our evening with Francois was fantastic - we got to be his first non-family visitors in his new home in Toronto. Hearing Troy's stories about his new job, enjoying Kristen's hospitality and meeting their daughter Lydia for the first time was a great homecoming.

It seems easier for them to tell us about their past year. How do we summarize so much of what we have seen and done into a few conversations, without endlessly repeating ourselves? We are still trying to figure that out. Though it's quite likely you'd hear us say, "Well in this place they did such and such," at some random moment. Or remember when ...

Before we know it, the stories will be lost in our memories if we don't tell them. So I guess even though we might feel hesitant or still in the process of trying to work it out, sharing is the best way to savour, remember and reflect on what this past year will all mean.

Copacabana and the Island of the Sun

Copacabana is a small Bolivian community right on Lake Titicaca. We spent 5 days enjoying this quaint, picturesque village and its' people. The corner room we rented in our hotel had two huge picture windows looking over the lake and was warmed by the afternoon sun. The room felt like a suite to us with two large sitting chairs, wonderful blankets and a really well done mural painting on the wall. It was super great for relaxing in, especially since there wasn`t much else to do.

One day we took a slow boat over to the legendary Island of the Sun. Depending on which myth you believe, this maybe where the first Inca king and other gods emerged from. Regardless of what you believe there are some ruins to be seen. The island is small with about 3000 inhabitants and no cars on it. There is a walking path from the north end connecting villages together all the way to the south. It took us about 3 hrs to make our way from one side to the other. Of course there was lots of ups and downs which meant great views of the bays as well as the Corderilla Real, a extensive mountain range with snow capped mountains.

At the ruins there was the usual hypothesis about animal images in stones but the real gem was the extensive labirynth of rooms. It didn`t take long to feel like you were a mouse in a maze trying to find your way out. Along with tunnels the building was constructed on several planes so you were constantly changing levels with out even realizing it.

The surroundings made it a wonderful place to be. Sparkling, deep blue water as far as you can see bordered by snow capped mountains. At the south end there was also a sequence of water pumps and an original set of Incan stairs. Unfortunately we were stopped three times to pay an entrance fee as we made our way along the path. We weren`t certain the money actually was invested back into the community or used for maintenance of the trail. It was a really interesting experience. The walk was worth it!

Our Time In Bolivia Cut Short

We worked hard to get to the capital of Bolivia. However no matter how far ahead you plan things are always subject to change here. Who knew that there would be political troubles when we made the decision to fly out of La Paz?? It seemed like the perfect way to ensure we spent some time there. Well, did that ever back fire!!!

Over the last month the political problems have escalated. To simplify it, there has always been problems between the East and West. The eastern part of the country is vey powerful and rich because of mining and natural resources. Just recently the first indigenous president (from the poor West) was elected. It was serious business. To ensure that things were a little bit peaceful no alcohol was sold for two days prior to the election. Being from the West the president sympathizes with the large majority of poor, subsistence farmers. The farmers would like the wealthy landowners in the West to share some of their loot and land. The Easterners are proud of all the work that they have done and are unwilling to just hand it off to someone less capable. It is a very complicated and troublesome 500 year old arguement.

But what that meant for us was uncertainties about flying. We began to hear rumours that blockades and rallies were interfering with local and international transportation. As the majority of the problems were not in La Paz we made our way there, hoping for the best. One of the first things we did was check in with the American Airlines office. The women who helped us spoke English and they were so helpful. That also happened to be the day that American Airlines cancelled all of their La Paz - Miami flights for the rest of September... until Oct 1st (and we were scheduled to fly out on the 2nd)! After a little discussion we were surprised when one of the ladies suggested we get out of there, I think her words were something like "Get out of here as soon as you can, it is not likely to improve". She meant that flying from one of their other South American hubs was recommended and they would cover the cost to change the tickets but not travelling expenses for us to get there.

Though La Paz continued to have demonstrations and there was an increase in the number of riot police after important talks, there were no serious problems while we were there. The high altitude means that the planes can only take off with a limited amount of fuel due to weight restrictions so they have to land with in a short time to refuel and upgrade their crew. This means the La Paz - Miami flight must land in the Bolivian city of Santa Cruz... in the tumultuous western half of the country. The protests, riots and road blockades meant that the Santa Cruz airport could not guarentee the necessary crew or fuel to the airline, which forced American Airlines to cancel their La Paz - Miami flights for the entire month of September. After hearing all of this from the lady at the AA office we had a tough decision to make. We could stay in La Paz and hope there would be a flight out on the 2nd of October, or we could leave Bolivia. If we decided to leave Bolivia... Where would we fly out of? How would we get there? When would we leave?

We spent many long hours analazing our options. In the end we retraced our steps to Lima, Peru. Flying to Chile and only having one or two days there just didn't seem worth the extra costs, though it was tempting. In total the two days of busing cost us about $100 (saving us around $800 over the other alternatives) and since we had little money and lots of time we went back to Lima. A bonus of the long bus trip back through Peru was we were able to return to Arequipa for one night and we were reminded of how much we loved the city. We also bumped up our departure so we could spend more time with Ian, Tamara and the girls in Florida. It was a little nerve wracking but it all worked out. An ironic twist is that as best as we can tell from trolling Google, it looks like miraculously our Oct 2 flight ended up leaving from La Paz after all!! Even though it turned out we probably could have just stayed in La Paz, we are happy with our decision to bail and head for Peru. The wise words of a fellow traveller still remain true, "In Bolivia everything is possible, but nothing is certain."

The Last of Our Peru Adventures Or So We Thought!!

Cusco to Puno
For an extra $10 we decided to take a guided bus tour from Cusco to Puno. There were 4 stops along the way rather than just busing straight away for eight hours.

The first stop was visiting an ornate church which was located in a very small town. It was loaded with gold and local artist renditions of heaven and hell and all sorts of other Biblical stories. What continues to amaze us is how an indigenous twist is woven into much of the religion and rituals. Secondly we spent about half an hour wandering around a set of ruins that is about half way between the two cities. It was an ideal spot for store houses as the geography and crops were very different in each direction. They`d take fruit and veggies from Cusco and swap them with the dried meat coming from Puno. There were over 120 circular storehouses, most were dilapidated and falling into disrepair. A massive temple dominates the site. The original middle wall would have stood at 16m. The weathered wall now stand an impressive 12m. On both sides of the wall circular support beam remnants still stood.

After a simple but nutritious buffet lunch we stopped at the highest point of our journey. I`m pretty sure that most people spent more time looking at souvenirs than the snow capped mountain. It felt sort of lame after seeing and climbing mountains that were higher. The last stop of the day was a small museum that unfortunately was being visited by all the other groups we`d been leap frogging as we drove. There were 8 tour buses from 3 different companies trying to file through. The museum had some neat stone artifacts and a great calendar showing the South American civilization timeline in comparison to other world civilizations.

When we arrived at the bus station we met the right guy with all the connections. He was soft spoken and polite. We got a discount on the room where we stayed that night and the taxi ride to our destination was thrown in for free. He set up our tour and bus tickets for the next day. It was service with a smile.

The Floating Reed Islands
You may have heard of the famous Lake Titicaca. It is the highest navigable freshwater lake in the world. Our tour guide proudly told us all sorts of random information, even leaving out some details trying to bait us to come back for the more extensive afternoon adventure. The collection of small islands is referred to as Islas de Uros. They are all made by hand and can be moved at any time. Who knew?

The process begins with cutting huge floating bricks (about 2" squared) from reeds roots and soil. Pegs are added to one corner of each brick and then they are all tied together. When the community has decided where they want to live they some how weigh it down. It is secured in one spot by the reeds growing up around the edges or by being tied to other close by islands. Reeds which are laid criss cross over the bricks are collected from about 3 km away. This ensures that they are the best quality one. As the reeds dry or decompose they just keep adding more. The reed layers become as thick as the blocks. The reeds are used to make boats, houses, mats and used to start their fires with. We even had to try eating the fleshy end. It wasn't bad

Life here is very communal. The people are very used to tourists and make their livelihood trying to sell handicrafts. Some of the islands have trout ponds. The locals seemed very eager to please and were willing to invite you into their houses, which were very simple with very little furniture. For example the house we visited had 4 people sleeping on the reeds. It did have a small TV powered by a solar panel ( given to them by the government.) They cooked on open air fire pits or small stoves. On this particular island one lady cooked for all the 30 others who lived on the island as well. The oldest person in the community was 100 years old. Our guide told us they only have basic health care on one of the islands. She attributed the limited resources to the peaceful island living where there's no stress and no one gets sick. There is one outhouse of stone and reeds tucked in a back corner. If used properly it`s not supposed to go into the water but is burned some how. They are only a short boat ride from the mainland ( 30 minutes) so that is where they get most of their supplies.

It was an interesting thing to experience but certainly not for everyone. Limited space and very tight quarters meaning you don't have a lot of time and space of your own. But life is full of surprises and uncertainties. It is a tradition that has been carried on for many years. Here is a great example of mixing new and old together. As we boarded a handmade boat the women performed a good bye song. It ended with "hasta las vista baby." I couldn`t help but smile. I don`t think they came up with that on their own!

The Inca City: Machu Picchu

Hiking to this outstanding sight is by far the best way to explore and enjoy Machu Picchu. We worked really hard for that experience and it was worth all the effort. Words can´t really do justice to what you see and feel in this place. There are so many unanswered questions and such mystery surrounds it. The American Hiram Bingham is credited for discovering Machu Picchu in 1911 but nowadays people disagree with some of his hypothesis. No one will ever really know so it`s best to take it in and use your own imagination.

For two hours we wandered around with our group seeing the main, important structures. Our guide made his propositions as to what they were and how they might have been used. It was still early and we didn`t have too many crowds to contend with. The rest of the day was our own until about 4 when we needed to gather our stuff and get on the slowest moving train ever!!! Jay and I spent hours basking in the sunlight, either checking out the spots we`d missed or lazing about on the terraces.

Some of the highlight spots:

• MP can roughly be divided into 3 areas: agriculture, religious and urban ( residential and industrial: weaving and ceramics)
• Temple of the Condor - On the ground is a rough image of a condor head. Behind it the rocks form its` wings. Tucked away behind the wings was an area that might have been intended as three sacred tombs but was never completed. The tombs are about 2" high, just the perfect size for a mummy in the fetal position.
• Temple of the Sun - This is the only circular building in the whole place. It is made of medium sized, very smooth rocks because it was an important spot. Though we couldn`t get inside it we stood in lower down room that likely belonged to the priest. Some of the multiple windows are aligned with the sunlight at solstices and equinoxes. In the middle of the temple is a big rock. Below the temple is a sort of cave with niches and a step like altar that was thought to be a tomb but no mummies were found there.
• Sacred Plaza - There is the temple of three windows but no one knows why there are 3 or what they represent. There are several unfinished pieces of work as pillars are set up along the inside of the temple but nothing is resting on them. On the left of that is the unfinished and damaged main temple. This entire area was constructed with large, very smooth rocks.
• Intihuatana/ Hitching Post of the Sun - Some say it is a sundial and our guide said it was used as a calendar. Either way this was an astronomical tool. At certain times of the year the sunlight`s rays would cast a shadow of 21 or 31 degrees on this tool so they could determine the solstices and equinoxes. Such information was important for farming related rituals. The stone is missing a chip on a corner because a crane smashed it during a beer commercial production!
• Rock Quary - Rocks of all sorts of shapes and sizes are found embedded in the middle of the site. You get a better idea of all the work that was involved. There are a few experimental rocks where professors have used local supplies as a way to demonstrate methods used to break the rocks; from tools to heating the rock and then cooling it.
• Ceremonial baths - Thought I am uncertain where the water source is you could see it cascade from one pool to another. In total there are 16 of them connected by tunnels and waterfalls.
• In the center is the main grassy plaza. Beyond that is the area that was divided into houses. There are 3 different blocks. All the structures are missing the roofs as they were made of thatch. Twine was wrapped around rocks sticking out of the side of the walls to secure everything in place. One house near the temple has a special cubby corner room that has a drainage tunnel. They guess the room was used to make Chicha the special corn drink. On floor of one room was a smooth concave mortar dish. In another a shallow bowl that when filled with water would reflect the stars and act as a telescope.
• Safety - Rather than have locks or gates small circlular holes were carved out of the rock. This was a sign that certain people were not permited to enter any further. At times rope may have been threaded through these as a visual way of saying stay out. They were found mostly in the religious areas.
  
  
  

The Inca Trail - Making Our Way to Machu Picchu

Over 5 days of hiking and 4 nights of sleeping in tents we made our way the famous Machu Picchu Inca City (MP.) We were in a group of 13 people most of whom were about our age. However in total there was over 30 of us; the guide and someone out of university in training to be a guide, a cook and his assistant, and 20 porters. The porters are my heros. During the high season they leave their families and work for days at a time. Simply dressed;wearing rubber sandals ( made from tires), a long sleeved jersey and shorts they are used to all the elements. They carry about 25kg on their back because only local residents are able to use animals for transportation. At our introductory meeting Cesar, our guide said that the porters run. I was a little skeptically but with their sinewy legs they often passed us a brisk pace.

Day One:
We`d been promised that today`d be our easiest day. Bright and early we were picked up from our hotels and in a small, comfortable bus we began the journey to km 82. The km marking system starts from Cusco and goes MP. Km 82 is where the road stops, as only the train continues. As we arrived at the parking lot a buzz of activity began. Groups of porters wait for their crews to make an appearance and the moment they did the men set off to work making bundles of equipment to set upon their backs. Prior to that they sit dressed in matching jackets/uniforms joking with each other.

At several main entrance points along the path there are checkpoints where it is necessary to show your passport and ticket. Each day only 500 new people are allowed onto the trail, porters and staff included. 500 people can visit MP on a daily basis. Realizing the importance of this sight the Peruvian government decided it was time to set some rules in place. Things have changed for the better since rules and better security were initiated.

The hike was mostly flat with a few rises and dips. However it was much hotter than expected as we walked through dry desert areas. That made it a little tiring. We stopped for lunch and had our first introduction to how camp is set up, right down to the toilet system ( a porter carries ALL the waste out.) We were never lacking food and tea was always served in ease the adjustment to altitude.

We passed many small villages and a few ruins (Huillca Raccay, Patallacta and Pulpituyoc), one of which was a rest station the Inca runners would have used as they delivered their cord messages. There were stories about the history and nature along the way. We saw two rest stations that the Inca runners would have used as they delivered their messages.

Day 2:
It lived up to our expectations of being the hardest day. Though it was windy and gray most of the day the rain never came. We went from about 2950m up to the highest pass of 42oom. Yeap that is a huge change. There were alot of stairs. Everyone was able to go at their own pace. The last ascent to the pass felt monumental as it was very steep and we`d just had lunch (we were faster than anticipated eating at 10:30!) The pass is known as Dead Woman`s pass because the rock form a silhouette that looks like a woman.

There were at least 4 different groups at each camp site. It took a while for things to feel more remote and less touristy. This night we were a lively bunch (before everyone started getting sick) as we played cards. With so many nationalities and personalities thrown into the mix we easily found ourselves laughing and joking. From this camp you could also see the next ruin (Runcu Raccay, a round shaped rest stop) about half way up the mountain side taunting us with the the steep hike up to it.

Day 3:
We were starting to fall into the groove of trekking. We started each day between 5:30 and 7am with a cup of wake up tea delivered to the tent. Boy do we miss that! There was plenty of time to wake up slowly while taking in the scenery as we had about 40 minutes to pack before breakfast. When we were fed and cleaned up ( at each spot we got a basin of hot water to wash with) we set off.

This day was full of ups and downs, with the second half meandering through cloud forest with lots of various sized and coloured humming birds. We also set foot on the original Inca roads. Up until that point the government had redone and adjusted the trail to make it easier and safer for tourists. We saw another prominent ruins ( Sayac Marca) and hiked up two much smaller and easier passes, with our camp perched over the valleys at the second spot. We made sure to take a picture at the tunnel of love (named after a couple who were murdered in the area for adultery .... or so the story goes.) As we`d gotten away from the crowds the experience seemed more authentic.

That night I decided to wash my hair. Maybe it wasn`t the best choice but it felt wonderful. The clouds loomed above our heads and opened just for a sprinkle, along with thunder and lightning in the distance. It was an early night, but before we packed it in we went to one of the highest points on the opposite side from our camp. The clouds had parted and you could see two of the tallest snow capped mountains. Brilliant!

Day 4:
Today was our last official day of hiking and their was lots of look forward to, mainly walking through the Sun Gate and catching our first glance of MP from a distance before walking to the city and getting to the hot springs to relax our weary bodies. Unfortunately my tummy was doing flip flops. Before we left camp we said good bye to the porters and passed along a hefty tip for all their hard work.

The ruins that we saw along the way today were mostly terraces and store houses. With the exception of Phuyupatamarca which was just down from our campsite and has lots of special ceremonial baths. After lunch we made our way up 50 last stairs to the Sun Gate (Inti Punco.) We followed the river and orchids dotted the greenery along the way. As you rounded the last corner you were met with majestic views of old buildings set in the safe valley surrounded by green mountains on most sides.

With the view in sight we were motivated to keep up the pace. There were three temples or possible burial sites along the last stretch. Our first introduction to the actual city was a Bolliwood production in the making. Over 20 men and women dressed in skimpy clothes with feathers every where, dancing to seductive music!! They were in the way of our perfect post card picture but we had a good laugh anyways.

A Word About the Incas

Wonder how the workers took huge stones and made them into impressive buildings? Or wondering why a terrace was created? Well you are about to get a small snapshot into their methods. Alot of what remains gives us hints about their culture and the rest is just invented. People have been pretty creative! Really it is a mystery but people have made some best guesses.

THE ROCKS
It is said that the structures are built in such a way that a single piece of paper will not fit between many of the stones. This precision, combined with the rounded corners of the limestone blocks, the variety of their interlocking shapes, and the way the walls lean inward, has helped earth quake proof them. They thought of everything!

With a work force of thousands of indigenous people huge blocks of rock were extracted from near by quarries. At times they diverted the river to make the work easier. The rocks were wrapped with rope and with lots of grunt work they were pushed and pulled over all sorts of terrain. Some rocks still have fist sized bumps that may have been used to harness the rope, while most have been cut off. Close to the ruins inclines and ramps were made. A deep groove was cut into the bottom of the rock and a log placed inside was used as a roller.

The rocks were brought to the site and then shaped to fit the concave curves of the stone below them. Hypothetically some sort of mold was used. All this was done with bronze hammers and very hard stones. Sometimes the rocks were polished using sand, water, clay and plants.

TERRACES
Terraces were a big deal to the Incas. A terrace is layers of ground that make giant steps. The steps are made of rocks and filled with different soil types and stones. The Inca territory was filled with so many different ecological zones plus they needed more area to cultivate crops on. They came up with the brilliant idea of terraces. And now they are everywhere.

It is remarkable to see and has some real benefits for growing their crops. For example the terraces better protected crops from the winds and rain so there was less soil erosion and it would provide a more stable climate. In time valley crops were acclimatizing to high mountain areas. Peanuts, corn, cotton, coca and hot peppers are just a few types of plants that they worked on. Many of the terraces continue to be used today.