Lake Atitlan - A Taste of Traditional Mayan Culture

Early on in El Remate Jay struck up conversation with a woman who ran their artesian shop and conviently sold large garrafones of water. The owners (Sylvia and Julio) had long ago decided to leave their hometown in hopes of making a better life for themselves and their 3 kids, the oldest, a boy is 7 years old. However it turned out that Julio was going back for a visit and to purchase items for thier store. Jay showed a little interest and before we knew it we had an invitation to join Julio. We were thrilled. Spending more time in places we are drawn to but seeing less has become our travelling philosophy. So this opportunity fit the bill perfectly.

After the most crazy bus drive we've experienced yet ( hills, steep roads, construction and blind corners took on a whole new meaning for this crazy driver, whose assistant spent more time hanging off the roof or out the side door than in the bus) we were glad to land safely in Godinez. The mountainous area we are currnently in is refered to as Lago de Atitlan, found in the Northwestern Highlands of Guatemala. There are over 12 little towns bordering the lake, along with several volcanoes. Panajachel the largest community with a poluation of about 15 000 people is a tourist haven. The main street is lined on both sides with Mayan handicrafts of all kinds but once you leave behind the party atmosphere created by catering to tourists the mentaily changes. Hardworking people who have experienced what it is like to have little, value all that they have accomplished. The looming memories of corrupt rulers and surival in a time of unpleasant circumstances are not far off. In the streets the sound of laughter or dickering at the market awakens your senses and you begin to experience a world full of ancient traditions with modern twists.

Though often dirty these slightly curious people greet you as they take shy galnces. Behind their traditional clothes ( long colourful wool skirts held in place by handwoven belts and eleborately embrodered roomy shirts for the women and girls, black and white skirts or bright blue knee length shorts with equally cheerful pants worn underneath by young boys or older men, while the men sport cowboy hats and typical farmer garb) they are a people with deeply held beliefs and graciuos, generous spirits. Cornfields, terraces and large pine tress dot the hillsides. The temperatures are on the cooler side, a welcomed relief for Jay.

We've been generously taken in by Julio's family. One of the brothers is in the States working, so his house remains empty, until we moved in! There is hot water and a comfy bed. The people in Godinez aren't really used to tourists so it has been fun getting to know our way around. There isn't a working kitchen in the house so we eat out. It has been great eating street food and discovering some yummy resturant food. Our favourite breakfast is a hot "mush" rice drink and they make a chocolate flavoured one as well. The flavour reminds me of Chia Tea. The ladies also prepare corn tamales. It is heavy going down but easily tides you over till lunch.
Julio has struck a great balance of being a friendly guide and letting us loose on the town. He realized early on that with few instructions and ideas we can get around and keep ourselves entertained. Some days we explore with him and other times we just do our own thing. We've seen several different markets, eaten pizza and burgers ( our favourite home comfort foods), hiked, watched movies, read and taken all sorts of public transportation ( which is entertainment in itself).

Lago De Atitlan