Ollataytambo and Pumamarca

Ollataytambo is a city with ruins that is about half way between Cuzco and Machu Picchu. It is small and very quaint town, but comes alive with toursits. People are proud because it is one of the only places that Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle. We ended up spending several nights there. We discovered a cafe that is run by a co-operative of local people where excellent food is served, woven products are sold and the profits go back into local communities. We liked it so much we ate 75% of our meals there and spent many hours reading magazines and books.

What remains on the mountain sides today is a the forstress with military baracks, the ceremonial area with a huge temple to the sun and another water purification/ritual area all among terraces. At the base of the mountain would have been the suburbs and living area. On the opposite hillside is storehouses.

The symbolism here is remarkable and visible to the untrained eye. At one point Jay happily exclaimed, "I see it!" referring to the image of a condor in the rocks. Llamas and people are the common iages seen in the rocks. Because of the fortress` location it was an ideal spot for astronomy. As a result they have discovered that the light shines at very specific, important spots at the solistices and equinoxes ( important seasonal changes marked by rituals.) During these celebrations the terraces were thought to be used for dancing.

We took a day trip to a remote ruin called Pumamarque. It was about a 2 hour walk through the country side. We saw two other tourists at the site. It was hard to guess what this spot would have looked like when it was in action. The stone work was very different with mortar being used to support much smaller rocks. The walls were much higher and wood was used to support door frames. With in the walls were several buildings clustered together and lots of open space.

What caught our attention was the kids. They`d set out the handicrafts their moms had made and waited. Since we were the only ones there they took matters into their own hands. Before long they were clambered all over the walls, throwing cow patties at each other and playing hide and seek. After a hard week of walking 2 hours to and from school each way it was time to unwind.