Esteli and Matagalpa

We spent a record 3 hours in Guatemala City before we boarded a Tica bus (an international, first class company). After two days of riding through 4 different countries, several border crossings and one night in San Salvador we arrived in Nicaragua, Esteli to be exact.

Maybe we were tired but our first impressions of this farming community were unpleasant. There has to be a first for everything!! It was sad because no one greeted us on the streets. We felt like we had to pry information out of the local toursist bureau. The museum in town was closed for renovations. And worst of all the phone call that I made home had the worst connection ever. I heard 1 in 4 words that my mom spoke when I wanted to talk with her sooo badly (it had been over a month and a half). The food was delicious with huge portions.

The most activity we saw was when we went to the bus station to get a ride out of town. As we walked the streets to get there were impressed with the lasting infrastructure ( sidewalks, sewage systems, firetrucks, ambulances, and dump trucks) of foreign aid after a natural diaster.

The bus ride to Matagalpa took us through some of the most fertile areas of the country. We passed rice and coffee farms. A small town we passed through had stalls set up displaying the largest carrots I have ever seen. As the bus stopped people jumped on the bus selling onions, tomatoes, potatoes and cucmbers. The vendors had to be quick or they went for a little ride before they could jump off. Other areas were dusty hills with scruffy trees growing on the sides as the dry season is just about done.

Matagalpa is known for their coffee and black pottery so we made sure to visit a coffee finca ( farm) and bought pottery pendants for on a necklaces. Though coffee season is finished we were able to enjoy the scenery and tranquility of this German owned plantation. We spent time hiking about the property which a mix of trails around a lake and checking out a bit of the buildings and old equipment that was a round. Strolling the streets, buying hotdogs, drinking beer and eating chocolate cake at a great cafe/bar, smiling, friendly security guards and an unusual simply built church were all different things that we experienced. We stayed for three nights in the smallest room yet.

Esteli and Matagalpa

A Little Taste of Home

This is sort of stepping back in time a little bit but after a 3 week vacation from the blog I thought it was long over due to share with you what we did in Antigua. Antigua was the last place we stayed in Guatemala.

Antigua has an amazing reputation in the back packers world because it reminds everyone of home. It is a dynamic,gorgeous city that is full of resturants, cafes, chocolate shops and a bagel place. The view from the streets is awesome as there are volcanoes in every direction. One of which is still active and occassionally you would see plumes of smoke rising to the heavens. The scars from damaging earthquakes are most evident in the old cathedrals and colonial buildings.

Parents of one of Jay's good friends generously invited us to join them visiting a Guatemalan friend of theirs. We were delighted as we were spoiled over the following days. The highlights included relaxing at the beach house, cooking deliciuos meals, drinking tea as we discussed life, and sleeping in a luxurious room. We felt refreshed after many stimulating conversations and lots of down time .

Adventures in Antigua

Sights and Sounds of Guatemala

• Our Anti-malaria medication that we take weekly makes Jay have diarrhea the day after we've taken it.


• I found myself wishing that I could get laundry lesssons. Washing clothes by hand is not as easy as it looks!


• Who knew that being in the back of a small pick up truck holding on for dear life could be as entertaining as TV - the view breath taking, great people watching opportunities and it is cheap,


• Samana Santa was unparalled


• Chicken bus is not a figure of speech! Clucking baskets and bags are a common sight. The grunting ones worry me - bacon in the morning :0) So far we've squeezed 28 people onto the back of a truck and 27 into a mini-bus collectivo.


• The most deadly mode of transportation is the lavishly decorated school buses that are driven at top speed. The death defying driver assistants hanging precariously off the back, on the top or out the side door, no matter how close the cliff's edge is or how fast the bus is moving. The air horn used to get people's attention and to notify the masses of their presence is not appreciated at 4 am.

Sights of Guatemala

The Wonder of Samana Santa / Holy Week

Latin America knows how to party. They always go big and Easter is no excpetion. People get time off to spend on street corners or at the beach relaxing with friends and family. Church is also a big part of it. We'd been given warnings before we left Mexico about its' importance and failed to head them, not reserving anything. It turned out well that we had the opportunity to tour with Julio. We've gotten the best of both worlds, experiencing the festivities in Godinez, a small rural village and in Panajachel where they have more money to invest in the celebrations. The usually reserved indigenous people are transformed, vividly displaying their emotions for the events that are at hand.


We arrived in Pana at about 11:30 as they were finishing the first procession. Church goers take to the streets, some of them carrying platforms that display replicas of Jesus adorned with flowers at different stages of the Crucifixion and the events surronding it. People walk to the music of a band. Incense thickly clouds the air. Along the route alfombras or carpets decorate the streets. Coloured saw dust and flower petals lie in beautiful arrangements of pictures or designs. What takes hours of work is destroyed as the procession walks through it. Ending at the church the image of Jesus was hung on the cross. The detail was chilling, particularly when a nail was placed into his hand and it took a lot of force to get it into place. Though there is alot of ritual and symbolism from Catholic church that I don't understand, partaking in an event that is more than just listening helps me appreciate better what Jesus went through.

On our way to find lunch we discovered the jack pot. The street was blocked off and groups of people or families were hard at work making the carpets. As we watched and wandered they displays were all at different stages. It begins with chalking out the basic outlines. They are then filled with with the appropriate colour and substance (charcoal, seeds, petals, flowers, fruit, pine needles, sawdust.) Sometimes a stencil is used. Water is sprayed in some spots to ensure it sticks, preserve the flowers a little longer in the hot sun or to blend colours. People of all ages were helping out. The work is barely finished before it gets trampled.

As it was Good Friday the second procession was a somber event, commemerating Jesus death. The men that held the immense platform with Jesus were all dressed in black suits. The music was sad and dreary. Some people tearful. The mood was noticably different than the morning.

When we arrived back in Godinez the was a much smaller and simpler procession that was gathering around town. The carpets were mainly made with pine needles with fruit and veggies beign what they used as decorations. The music was much better though.

Sunday we went to church in the monring in Godinez. It was simple and long, but good to be there.

Semana Santa

Miracles !?!?!?! Something Unexpected .....

After an afternoon of wandering the main street in Panajachel we discovered that a volcano tour cost $50/ person. Thinking that was a little steep we asked Julio about it. By the evening he'd convinced us that him and his brother would be our guide to hike up a different volcano that was higher (3158m) and closer to home. What I didn't realize until afterwards was that he'd never hiked it himself. There are two volcanos right beside each other. He'd done the other one, which is even higher and even that had been 8 years ago. He figured that the shorter one would be easier, but we discovered that it was less travelled. Julio's sister joined us on the hike, this was her first time up a volcano.

We parked in the nearest town and said good bye to the family that would watch out for the van. Their last words were we'll see you tomorrow. Their advice to us was to hike for 4 hours and then turn around, where ever we were. We set out with 1 o'clock being our latest turn around time. The first 2 hours were through fields of corn and coffee. It was steep going and hard for me to imagine the farmers hauling their goods back and forth. We saw men carrying out large rounds of trees on their backs.

We reached a great look out spot where you could see the lake and the town below. From there the terrain was more difficult and the path needed to be cleared with machetes. Pines tree needles made our grip tricky and then we got to the cloud forest that was dense. The clouds were so thick that for the last hours we couldn't even see the top.

Well 1pm came and went. At 2 o'clock we finally sat down for lunch, though we'd had many breaks as we hiked up. The brothers weren't ready to give up and said that they'd go ahead and check the trail. Julio hollered down for us to come meet him. At 3 o'clock we caught up with them. We hadn't reached the top. What were we to do? Well the options were less than great, unfair was how I described it to Jay while I was frustrated. We could go back and do the last part in the dark or we could go to the top and spend the night there. It was cool and we were tired, but we decided to brave going to the top, realizing that it could be cold and that we had only a little food and water.

By 4 o'clock we were at the top. It was totally cloudy and thick underbrush seemed to cover every surface. We wander around in search of a place to lay our heads. After clambering up and down a few hills and through forest galdes we discovered a clearing that had a fire pit. Long ago someone else had been there and left behind a lighter. With several attempts and a few breaks in between we got a fire started with the rusted out and low fluid lighter. Julio got on his knees and prayed thanking God for the fire. With a renewed spirit he complimented us all on working as a team to get to the top.

We prepared as best as we could for the night that lay before us by gathering fire wood and making a thatch lean to. We rationed the bread, watermelon and water. The beignning of the night went by quickly. The chatter reminded me of family camping. There were times when the clouds cleared and you could see stars and the nearly full moon. Jay got in a few hours of sleep. By midnight I was cold and exhausted so I just started to cry. Our supply of wood was nearly gone. And the wind had picked up. The brothers got more wood and piled pine boughs around to ward off the chill. The siblings took turns tending the fire. They gave me the hottest spot and wrapped us in newspaper to warm us up. But by 5ish the wind was violent, everyone was awake. Unfortunately it was cloudy again and rain was spitting. Who knew when it would clear so we waited and ate the rest of the bread. By 7 we were on our way.

Food, warmth and a bed are great motivators for tired people so we made it down in record timing. The last hour everyone was quite. What took 7 hours to climb up we descended in 4.5 hrs. We slept for 11 hours that night and woke up to stiff muscles. There were a few little warning signs along the way that we missed but this was a crazy adventure that Jay had always dreamed of. Though it was tough we remained positive. Though staying on the top of the mountain had not crossed our minds, it was totally legitamate in everyone elses . We learned so much about the Guatemalan way and we well cared for given the situation. And now we are going to carry matches around with us, just in case!

Volcan Toliman (Volcan San Lucas)

Lake Atitlan - A Taste of Traditional Mayan Culture

Early on in El Remate Jay struck up conversation with a woman who ran their artesian shop and conviently sold large garrafones of water. The owners (Sylvia and Julio) had long ago decided to leave their hometown in hopes of making a better life for themselves and their 3 kids, the oldest, a boy is 7 years old. However it turned out that Julio was going back for a visit and to purchase items for thier store. Jay showed a little interest and before we knew it we had an invitation to join Julio. We were thrilled. Spending more time in places we are drawn to but seeing less has become our travelling philosophy. So this opportunity fit the bill perfectly.

After the most crazy bus drive we've experienced yet ( hills, steep roads, construction and blind corners took on a whole new meaning for this crazy driver, whose assistant spent more time hanging off the roof or out the side door than in the bus) we were glad to land safely in Godinez. The mountainous area we are currnently in is refered to as Lago de Atitlan, found in the Northwestern Highlands of Guatemala. There are over 12 little towns bordering the lake, along with several volcanoes. Panajachel the largest community with a poluation of about 15 000 people is a tourist haven. The main street is lined on both sides with Mayan handicrafts of all kinds but once you leave behind the party atmosphere created by catering to tourists the mentaily changes. Hardworking people who have experienced what it is like to have little, value all that they have accomplished. The looming memories of corrupt rulers and surival in a time of unpleasant circumstances are not far off. In the streets the sound of laughter or dickering at the market awakens your senses and you begin to experience a world full of ancient traditions with modern twists.

Though often dirty these slightly curious people greet you as they take shy galnces. Behind their traditional clothes ( long colourful wool skirts held in place by handwoven belts and eleborately embrodered roomy shirts for the women and girls, black and white skirts or bright blue knee length shorts with equally cheerful pants worn underneath by young boys or older men, while the men sport cowboy hats and typical farmer garb) they are a people with deeply held beliefs and graciuos, generous spirits. Cornfields, terraces and large pine tress dot the hillsides. The temperatures are on the cooler side, a welcomed relief for Jay.

We've been generously taken in by Julio's family. One of the brothers is in the States working, so his house remains empty, until we moved in! There is hot water and a comfy bed. The people in Godinez aren't really used to tourists so it has been fun getting to know our way around. There isn't a working kitchen in the house so we eat out. It has been great eating street food and discovering some yummy resturant food. Our favourite breakfast is a hot "mush" rice drink and they make a chocolate flavoured one as well. The flavour reminds me of Chia Tea. The ladies also prepare corn tamales. It is heavy going down but easily tides you over till lunch.
Julio has struck a great balance of being a friendly guide and letting us loose on the town. He realized early on that with few instructions and ideas we can get around and keep ourselves entertained. Some days we explore with him and other times we just do our own thing. We've seen several different markets, eaten pizza and burgers ( our favourite home comfort foods), hiked, watched movies, read and taken all sorts of public transportation ( which is entertainment in itself).

Lago De Atitlan

El Remate ........ El who ?!?!?!??

So we spent one week hanging out by a lake. The place is called ... you guessed it El Remate. I don´t know what that means or if it is something special, but for some strange reason I really find this name funny. It is in Guatemala. The area is famous because of the Tikal ruins. Following are a whole bunch of pictures of the ruins. It is popular because it is one of the largest Mayan complexes. Here are a few of the highlights of that trip.

• A taxi driver came to our rescue. We originally planned to walk from the corner to town (about 2km) but in the sorching heat he convinced us. It turned out his sister owned a hotel and we went there. It was a huge, clean room and they ended up giving us a discount. They took good care of us. We used their phone and fridge, they gave us a great deal on the taxi rides that we took, loved to chat with us and just made us feel at home.
• The first night at our hotel we came up and hung out with a group we'd met in Belize. It was so great to share random ideas and stories over beer
  
• Your price of admission to Tikal is expensive, about $20 ( more than a good, hearty meal for two people.) But if you buy it after 3pm it is also good for the next day. We`d heard about watching the sun rise or set from the highest temple ( 64m high, built in 700AD) , so we thought it was worth it. What nobody told us was that the temple was under construction and had scafolding all over it, such that you could only see one side, and it was not the side the sun set on! But for a small fee (otherwise known as bride) to the very official looking security guards with guns, we could climb under the railings and watch from side with a view. It was worth the extra money.
  
• The next morning we got a Spanish guide - Israel ( as recommended by a friend and taxi driver who came to our rescue as we stood by the side of the road on our first day there, well we hadn`t even made it there.) With him using simple Spanish and speaking slowly we were able to understand almost all of it. What an accomplishment! We are so proud and feel liberated because we can now express oursevles and chat with people.
  
• We were also impressed with the unexcavated sites. Israel often pointed them out. It is amazing to wonder what is hidden beneath layers of dirt and stones.
  
• Israel has been a guide in the park for 18 years. Around the back of the 'Lost World Pyramid' was an entry way that was closed to the public but not locked, which meant that we could sneak in and see two large jaguar masks. These masks date back to 250 BC!
  
• Aside from the grandeur of the pyramids there was spectacular wildlife. As you'll see by our vast number of attempts at capturing pictures of spider monkeys, we were fascinated. You'd be walking and hear rustling of branches over head. As you looked up a little monkey would be dropping out of a tree and just in time catch a branch with his tail or paws. There was all sorts of birds and Israel could identify them by their call. Our favourites sightings were parrots, toucans, and oro pendulas.
  
• The first night at our hotel we came up and hung out with a group we'd met in Belize. It was so great to share random ideas and stories over beer


• We discovered an organization called Ix-Canaan or Guardians of the Rainforest. It provides healthcare, playspace, a library and a computer lab to local families free of charge and is run solely by donations of money and time. It was great to see the clinic and hear about the doctors dreams for the future. The positive effect that conitnuous short term trips by North American people along with the continued presence of committed locals was easily evident in a short visit.
  
  
  

  Tikal and the Surrounding Area